I’ve braved the waves twice now since the shark attack in April off Solana Beach, and I have to confess that my mind invents some pretty horrible scenarios as I float and bob on my surfboard. Yep, it’s scary. And yep, I can see how many folks out there think it’s crazy to go surfing in light of recent events
But man, if felt great. I was in waist-high with some chest-high surf, and it tasted sweeter than ever. And I was not alone. There were about 10 of us out there. Sure, we stayed in a tighter group than normal. And maybe I imagined it, but I think we were even a little more courteous with each other out there. Despite the fear and trepidation was a stronger sense of purpose and being. Surfing still held all the charm, grace, and wonder it did before the shark attack.
For that, I am grateful.