Surfing is a metaphor for life. Every time I surf, every wave I catch, every movement I experience on the water is new and unique and exciting. I can’t wait to see what happens next and I wait in awe and wonder as each wave come towards me, wondering “What will this wave bring to me?”
On the water, waiting for a wave, I think about nothing except what is happening in that moment. I become a reactive entity that seizes each opportunity as it comes, and lets go of all else.
I become completely dependent on my connection with the wave. There is no real way to predict what each wave will be like, so I stop trying to. Instead, I practice several simple movements that serve me well no matter what the wave is like. I paddle hard. I pop with explosive energy and hold nothing back. I feel for the wave’s energy, and respond to that energy in kind. When the wave ends, I take a deep breath and do it again.
Life and surfing? Not so different after all, I think.