Life and surfing are not so different…

Surfing is a metaphor for life. picture-3.pngEvery time I surf, every wave I catch, every movement I experience on the water is new and unique and exciting. I can’t wait to see what happens next and I wait in awe and wonder as each wave come towards me, wondering “What will this wave bring to me?”

On the water, waiting for a wave, I think about nothing except what is happening in that moment. I become a reactive entity that seizes each opportunity as it comes, and lets go of all else.

I become completely dependent on my connection with the wave. There is no real way to predict what each wave will be like, so I stop trying to. Instead, I practice several simple movements that serve me well no matter what the wave is like. I paddle hard. I pop with explosive energy and hold nothing back. I feel for the wave’s energy, and respond to that energy in kind. When the wave ends, I take a deep breath and do it again.

Life and surfing? Not so different after all, I think.

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1 Comment

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One response to “Life and surfing are not so different…

  1. xpressurf

    Nice text bro. I never think that way, but now, looking for that, i really saw that is not so different surf and life. For me , life is surf and surf is life! We have a imense world, many natural things to do, why we destroy that ? let´s enjoy, make a culture, music. sea, music, surf, friends and some beer ( hahaha), its essential for us. money sucks, all people just live for money, i want to live for me, for the things that i like. I dont know if you think like me, but… see you! I´ll add your blog to my LIST.

    peace man!

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